North West Italy 2018 pre-harvest

In the heart of the Moferrato, South of Asti, grows arguably the finest Barbera and Moscato in Piedmont, so the finest on the whole of the peninsula.  This means very little of course next to the greatness of Nebbiolo, but the fruit from these limestone and sandy marls on softly rolling hills produce world class wines.

Sweet fizzy and low alcohol wine might not be your cup of tea, but the apparent simplicity of these wines belies their extraordinary character. Not only that but they age gracefully and rewardingly, if you see an old Moscato d’Asti languishing at the back of a shelf in a wine shop, grab it, you will be surprised. After a gawky phase at 2 years the secondary development mirrors the primary but in a more robust way. At 8 years old they can quite extraordinary.

There is pressure from producers for there to be a DOC/G for a dry Moscato wine, but the wheels of Italian bureaucracy being what they are this could take a decade to achieve. In the meantime we have to label with made up names with Vino Bianco  on the label and absolutely cannot, not ever, put “Moscato” on the label.

Barbera from around Nizza Monferrato finally achieved official recognition as being of exceptional quality in 2014, Barbera Nizza DOCG is the top of the quality tree and in some ways put the Barbera d’Alba/d’Asti debate to rest. This is where The English Winemakers fruit for the 2018 Whole Bunch Barbera will be sourced from.

North Canterbury, New Zealand

The maddestly hot Summer in living memory resulted in a rather challenging vintage. Not least due to the grapes being ripe ridiculously early (tales from Central Otago included grapes being harvested on the last day of February: unheard of), so the logistics of having enough people around to get the job done was tricky.

The weather also meant that there was a running battle with vigour and mildew. The vines wanted to grow and grow they did, so those that did not get a regular haircut really got away, and the humidity did the rest. Some were not quite on the ball as much as they ought to be and a lot of fruit got left on the vine.

The quality of fruit that had been well looked after was terrific, potential alcohol was generally about spot on and physiological ripeness in balance. Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, the twin tenets  of New Zealand wine production, were both in excellent shape in North Canterbury.  The Pinot Noir coming from the active Limestone sites was particularly impressive.

Even with skilled pickers the fruit still needed careful selection in the winery and the sorting table got a pretty serious workout, by far the most labour intensive part of the whole process. With a natural wine making philosophy there were no additions and fermentation was allowed to kick off spontaneously. The spin with these wines was the extended skin contact, with even the Sauvignon getting 28 days on the skins after the end of fermentation.

2018 North Canterbury wines are going to look great when the first ones get released in around October.

English Sparkling Wine

These are exciting times for the English wine industry. The volume of land planted to vines is growing exponentially with more new vineyard registered in the last few years than in the previous decade. There is now comfortably over 2,000 hectares (5,000 acres) under vine, more than doubling since 1998. 20 years ago this would have been unbelievable especially when you consider that nearly half of all plantings are to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir rather than Germanic varieties.

However there has not really been in massive increase in the number of wineries, and fewer than there were 30 years ago. Wineries are therefore expanding, and fizz is the unifying theme. Whether you like it or not English Fizz is well and truly on the map. It would be nice to think that that Champagne style bubbles was not the future though, and I certainly hope for still English wines that have a feel of place, that have plenty of character, are affordable and delicious. The 2015 & 2016 releases give reason for hope, especially from Pinot Bianco and some very interesting still Chardonnays. The word from the cellars is that despite lower volumes the 2017s are looking pretty tidy too.